Nawlins

OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG.

I'll start with the place we stayed, The Balcony Guest House. It is on Royal in Marigny district, a 15 minute stroll from the French Quarter and it's delights.

Marigny is as old as the as French Quarter, but has none of the 'crazyness'. It's mainly residential, with local shops and bars. Please, if ever anyone reading this has a chance to stay at this place, just go for it. It's amazing. The owner and the rest of the family, staff and locals are brilliant. You feel at home the moment you arrive. We had room 1 and this was the view from the wrap around balcony that gives the place it's name.

View looking away from city

View looking toward the French Quarter.

Balcony

Balcony

Did I mention the food? The best we've had on the road. A mix of Creole, Asian and Southern, every meal on the menu was wonderful. We didn't eat anywhere else, didn't need to, when you've got such a place under your room, why wander. And just a wee mention of Renee, who was such a great bar tender and hostess whilst we were there.

We'd been told on our way down, that NOLA was pretty similar to Memphis, or at least Bourbon Street was like Beale Street. WRONG! Where Beale was uncomfortable, Bourbon was like a pair of old slippers. We just slid right in there.

Bourbon is everything that Beale wasn't. Great music venues, excellent shops and bars and a vibe that you just have to experience.

Mind you, it was hot! Oh yes it was hot. There was a heat advisory whilst we were there, 98F, real feel 110F. Not great for long distance walking, but brilliant for bar hopping. Too hot? Just stop at this bar, have a cool down, walk a bit, stop again and repeat as required.

We did most of the pre-requisites, the French Market, Cafe Du Monde and of course the Old Absinthe House. Ah yes, the O.A.H. Recommended by several folk, thanks Blair et al, we started the day there on Friday. Let's just say that when you do Absinthe the N'Orleens way, it's like someone lit a rocket under yo ass!

Our bartender with the Absinthe smile

Need I say more

We rocked outta there and bounced the rest of the day from bar to bar, band to band, until we crashed the Cats Meow, NOLA famous karaoke bar. Of course we would wouldn't we!

We also took in some more music, having booked tickets to see The Cadillac Three play, supporting Jake Owen. (Who is mighty big in these here parts evidently) the band were brilliant again, we'd seen them on the SMC a couple of years ago and they really know how to rock that Southern way.

I could wax lyrical about New Orleans for ever, but it's enough to say that it is the highlight of the trip so far. An amazing city, an amazing culture and great great people. If ever you get the chance, just bloody go there.

The Road to Nawlins

The H70 is an amazing highway. It starts on the East coast, meanders it's way across the country into Nashville, down through Memphis and continues out West almost to the Pacific. We picked it up almost outside our accommodation in Nashville and stayed on it till we reached Little Rock.

To drive, it's a pleasure. Quiet, long straight roads stretching way into the distance, small towns built around corn, cotton and beans. Pick up trucks, oh yes there's pick up trucks.

One of my disappointments on this trip is the lack of American cars. OK, there's pick ups! Did I mention that already. But other than pick ups, there are SUV's and Japanese imports. The occasional Ford, a few Dodge Chargers and a Mustang now and again. What happened to the Chevy's, the Caddy's, the Buick's. Sad to say the US automotive industry has gone the way of most other places. The vehicles on the roads here are no different to those at home, except a bit bigger. The pick up's that is. Did I mention them? Some of them are bloody huge!

Anyway I digress. The H70 leaves Nashville and goes through Jackson. Had to stop here, after all, it's all about the music. Didn't see much of the place to be honest, but the hotel was good and I had my first Catfish of the trip. It's an acquired taste I think. Taste's a bit like mud to be fair, but then it is a bottom feeder so no doubt a fair bit of mud passes through.

After Jackson (Tennessee) and there are 23 towns and cities with the same name in the US, we cruised down and through Memphis. After leaving there early, we decided to stay on the highway and go further West to Little Rock. Bill and Hilary Clinton have made this place famous and it's impossible to go anywhere without seeing the Clinton name somewhere.

The outdoor arena

Jake on the Streetcar from desire.

The Streetcar.

Clinton Bridge?

The last submarine from WW2

Mississippi paddle boats.

Loved the town though, it has a fine downtown area with some great bars and shops and a well thought out layout, making it easy to get around on foot and see some of the area. We stayed two days here and really enjoyed it.

Sadly it was time to leave the H70 and we picked up the road South, taking us through such places as Pine Bluff, Tallulah and Waterproof. Only in the US of A will you find a place called Waterproof. And when we passed through there, it was bloody raining! Oh the irony.

Our stop for Filet Gumbo and Jambalaya 

Gator and fries anyone?

Our last stop before reaching Norleens was in Natchez, a town with a history going back to pre civil war. Evidently, Natchez was spared damage during the civil war as it was considered irrelevant to the campaign. So many of the Antebellum homes are still existing and are beautiful.

We stayed at the Eola Hotel, which is legendary itself. Photo's don't do it justice, but here's a few anyway. An incredible place.

Gone with the wind!

Following the Mississippi again, we sauntered our way Southwards stopping and eating and viewing this wonderful country until we reached New Orleans. The road through the country was done, we have reached the Mississippi delta. Starting way up North, we've driven about 2500 miles from Minneapolis, taking it as slow as the river runs. Back then I posted a photo of the river in its infancy and now we are at it's widest. Next to Route 66, the Great River Road and it's deviations has been an uplifting, amazing journey. A real Road Trip.

The wide slow Mississippi.

Now we've reached NOLA, it's time to head East again and follow the coast road into more of that Southern hospitality. Won't ever forget the Mississippi though, no siree!

The Road Down to Nashville

As this trip is about the road and the driving and the stuff we see and do, I thought it best to have a separate bit on the drive itself. In fact, I will probably split the road down into two bits, this bit will cover Minneapolis to Nashville.
We rented our second car in Minneapolis, this is it. Same as the one out of JFK, just not as black and sparkley, but hey, it goes.

Leaving the city, we drove East until we reached highway 61, which follows the Mississippi for several hundred miles South. This great river originates to the North of Minneapolis and is narrow and fast flowing. It's great to think that by they time we reach New Orleans we'll have driven almost the whole length.

A narrower Mississippi.

Highway 61 passes through some great little towns, one of which was Redwing. Now for those of you that don't know, back in the day I worked in the oil industry and the main footwear available were Redwing boots. Lo and behold, this is where they come from. The whole town is geared toward the manufacture and distribution of these boots and shoes and it was interesting to be in a place that had connections to my past life.

Our first overnight stop was in Dubuque. A nice small town with a mix of old and new.

We went for a couple of drinks in the evening and on leaving one bar, were chased along the street by the young lass who had served us. Thinking I had forgotten to pay, we were amazed when she presented us with a T shirt from the bar as a reminder of our visit. Some folk are just so nice.

Continuing on the next day, we stopped for lunch here, they had never had any tourists in the bar before! We were the first Brits the owner had spoken to. 

This poster was on the wall of the bar. 

Still following the river, we came across the first of our animals at the side of the road stops. Why a pink elephant? Who knows, it's just there.

As much as possible, we want to stop in strange places and we couldn't have got much stranger than the Chateau Hotel in Bloomington. This was built as a 'replica' of what the owners guessed a French Chateau looked like both inside and out. It was fabulous and cheap when compared to a basic Holiday Inn or the equivalent.

The hotel.

The reading room

The reception area

Jake confessing all.

After leaving Bloomington in the morning, we continued our drive down until we reached Indianapolis and our stay with Bob and Cindy.

Leaving there after a few days it was back on the road, highway 31, through Louisville until we reached Bardstown. This is halfway to Nashville.

Our overnight stop was at an old stagecoach station, the Old Talbott Tavern.

http://www.talbotts.com/

This was another great wee place to stay and the rooms were spacious and wonderfully fitted with old stuff.

There was a thunderstorm while we were in Bardstown.

All in all, the drive down to Nashville was brilliant. We do not drive on any Interstates (motorways), but stay on the older Highways and byways. The roads for the most part are empty as everyone is in a rush to get places and avoid these slower meandering roads.

Speeds limits! So before we left the UK, I couldn't understand why the speed limits were set so slow in the US. Now I understand. Driving here there are no real rules. People pull out in front of you on any road at any speed. They pull across in front of you when approaching from the opposite direction.   Indicators (flashers) are not used at all, in fact I don't think most drivers here know they have them on the car. But no-one goes fast. The traffic police seem to be everywhere, stopping folk all over the place. 

I am quite satisfied to put the car on auto pilot at 50 mph and just sit and watch the world go by. 

Memphis

Been there, done that, didn't bother with a T shirt..........
No seriously we have moved on, supposed to stay three nights, bailed on one. Why you may ask? OK here's the griff. Got sorted at the hotel which was fine, nice and clean, safe enough and just a $10 cab to Beale.
Got to Beale all excited (remember Nashville?) and WTF!!!
It's not very good.
Tacky really. The bit of Beale where the bars are located is barriered off both ends and in effect it's probably about 200 yards long. Half the buildings are food and trinkets and the rest are bars, of which only about three or four are playing live music.
The standard of the artists was pretty poor to be honest, nowhere near Nashville level, in fact what we watched was basic home town playing really. Prices high, toilets not very good, and no buzz about the place at all. And this on Saturday night as well!
So that's it, no point in staying here for another two days, will probably try and see some legendary things before we leave, Sun studio and whatever, but nah!
Memphis is living on Elvis and if you ain't into Elvis..........
Some pics.

WC Handy won't you look down over me.

If these are JLL's hand prints, they must've been teeny weeny little things.

Beale street.

Nashville

Oh my god!
Where to start with this amazing city. OK, we didn't see much of it, didn't actually get much further than downtown Broadway and a drive around a bit of it in taxis, but hey the bit we experienced was off the scale.

First the iconic bits. I've always loved the Nashville skyline ever since they constructed the 'Batman' building, or the AT&T tower. To stand beneath it's glass walls and look up at the ears on the top was an amazing experience. 

But I jump ahead. We'd been listening to the radio on the way down to Nashville and as the city came into view, Lynyrd Skynyrd came on the radio with Sweet Home Alabama. Talk about tears in the eyes, we were both smiling from ear to ear and rocked that song like Bill and Ted till it finished. Here we were at our first Spiritual city and we couldn't wait to hit those revered streets. We were staying with a guy who rents part of his house through AirB&B and had no trouble finding the place. 

Quickly, get changed, we've got a date at the Grand Ole Opry. How much fun is this! We'd booked tickets for the Tuesday radio show months ago and the line up looked good. It was actually much better in the flesh. Not as stuffy or even as Country as I expected. I really enjoyed the whole experience and of course Jake was smiling throughout. She's a redneck at heart, or so she tells me.

Here's some pics from the evening.

Entering the Hallowed Doors.

The Whites

Rhett Walker Band

Guitarist with Tyler Farr Band. That's pretty out there for a country boy!

         

John Jorgenson Bluegrass Band. Fabulous performers, especially Mr. Jorgenson on the small guitar thingy.

Little Big town.

So that was the Opry. Another bucket list item chalked off. We had two full days ahead of us and boy did we use it. We decided to wear indoor clothes for the day, because the air conditioning is so coooool, so although the temps were in the low 90's, we donned jeans and T shirts and headed off into the sunshine, knowing full well we wouldn't be back till bedtime. Downtown Broadway is where most of the music bars are situated and arriving there was so damn exciting. Every establishment sells drink, food and music. It starts at 11 in the morning and goes through till 2 in the morning. The acts changed every three hours in each bar and there are so many of them. We just went from place to place for two full days, sleeping a bit, but just really going for it as we do!

Some photos of the entertainment.

Brit Stokes. Amazing singer and player.

Wish we had one of those!!!!

Can't remember who she was!!!

These guys were brilliant. Drank between every song and just got wilder. So much talent and fun.

Inside of the famous Roberts Western World Bar.

Looking into Roberts.

Favourite band with Daniel Donato on lead. This boy will be famous one day.

Me singing at the world famous Blind Horse Having a Pee Saloon

After singing at the Blind Horse, we went for a drink together.

Na na na na na na batman!

So many fun and funny things happened here. We phoned a cab from the house, said it would be 15 mins, so we wait outside. After 15 mins this white Chevy with a blue stripe comes past us, Jake waves it down, it was a police car!!!! 

We met up with an Orkney exile, Phil Anderson, who has made Nashville his home and is involved in the music industry. Orcadians get everywhere. Turns out there's another lad from home, Craig Smith, who plays in a band here and we probably saw him on Ŵednesday night! Small small world.

All too soon it was over and it was time to move on. Nashville is wonderful. If anyone reading this has the chance to go, please do, it will leave a great scar on your memory. As for us, it's a new day, it's a new dawn and time to get that motor running.